alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Oki so the camblocks are arriving very very soon, the tdc guage is here already What exactly is the procedure? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anjenha 44 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Unfortunately I couldn't yell you, but it's scary you are considering doing it when you don't actually know..... Good luck!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Lol no I kind of do know, I have seen it being done and read up about it, but I nEed to be 100% sure about it because 1 wrong move could make big damage Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisO 2 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 If you have a look at the Alfa Workshop website they have a write up - link below http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_cam_ ... ange.shtml Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Ok thanks I have just read it now, seems all I need to know is tdc and have the camblocks in position, slacken both pulley bolts, tension the belt and then fasten the pulley bolts?????? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Ok thanks I have just read it now, seems all I need to know is tdc and have the camblocks in position, slacken both pulley bolts, tension the belt and then fasten the pulley bolts?????? I don't think I'd attempt it if I were in your position, I know of garages that think they know what they are doing and the next thing they are asking me what's up with the engine.... Just get one thing wrong and your looking at a £500 bill at least. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 I understand that but I'm not going to pay for a cambelt change again the job takes 15mins and they charge as if they changed my clutch, I'm in South Africa and alfa workshops here are just ridiculous, iv got the necessary tools, and iv seen it being done, I just need to be 100% sure Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anjenha 44 Report post Posted September 1, 2011 How much did you pay for the kit, out of interest? Things like this make me so pleased the hubs is a mechanic! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2011 Well I ordered the camblocks from totallyalfa in the UK worked out to around R 600 total, as for the dial gauge I had 1 so I just made up my own stem for it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 2, 2011 I understand that but I'm not going to pay for a cambelt change again the job takes 15mins and they charge as if they changed my clutch, I can change a clutch quicker than most places can do a belt change so if ANYONE can replace a twinny belt in 15 minutes then... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2011 Then wat? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 3, 2011 Then I'll pay for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2011 But you have done the cambelt job enough times and you know exactly what to do so since I have all the necessary tools arriving soon, I would love to do it myself and that is why I posted this topic. So any advice would be much appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 4, 2011 Best advice is, 1. Disconnect the battery -ve terminal first, loosen front right wheel bolts, jack up front of car, support on axle stands and remove wheel, undertray (if fitted) and small access cover in front right hand wheel arch. 2. Open bonnet, remove the engine cover, loosen the 4x 8mm ribe bolts in the crank pulley, remove aux belt cover (2x 5mm allen and 1x 10mm nut), using a 15mm ring spanner and a bit of rope, remove the aux belt by tieing the rope to the spanner, fitting it to the aux tensioner at about the 4 o'clock position, pull up on the rope and slide the belt off the idler, this will mean you are not lying on the floor strugling. Then remove the crank pulley, aux tensioner 1x13mm bolt and remove the idler 1x15mm bolt. 3. Remove cambelt covers, 5mm allen bolts x8, loosen the 10mm nut on the balance belt tensioner and remove along with the belt, remove the crank balance pulley 2x 6mm ribe. 4. Unplug the A/C pump, R/H Lambda probe and 4 coil packs, unclip the loomremove the coil pack, 3 or 4x 6mm ribes depending on engine, remove main plug from each cylinder (L/H looking from front), disconnect the 2 breather hoses 2x R-clic clamps, undo the 9x 6mm ribes and remove the cam cover, remove the exhaust cam cap on the #3 cylinder and rotate the engine clockwise using a 19mm spanner on the crank bolt till the cam lock fits, using longer bolts to hold the lock down is recommended to prvent damage to the head, now remove the 4 x 6mm ribes on the inlet cam pulley and the 13mm nut on the cambelt tensioner, remove the pulley and the belt will come too. Remove the cambelt Idler and Tensioner. 5. Remove the 18mm bolt from the exhaust cam pulley by holding the pulley still with a pulley holding tool (care must be taken not to damage the pulley or the cam sensor) and remove the forward section of belt cover 2x 5mm allens, next remove the 2x 6mm allen bolts from the water pump and remove the pump, fit new pump with seal tighten bolts and refit cover. 6. Remove inlet cam 10mm bolts x 12 and 1x 5mm hex in the cam sensor, loosening them evenly along the cam, hold cam in a vice with a rag wrapped around the #1 lobes and using a variator removal tool, remove the variator, clean out the threads and fit new variator, refit the cam using the lock to replace the #2 cylinder support, again tightening the bolts down evenly and ensuring the cam goes down in the correct orientation, don't forget the cam sensor 5mm allen, refit the EXHAUST cam pulley aligning the woodruff key and leaving the bolt 1 turn loose, fit the cambelt tensioner leaving the nut 1 turn loose and fit the cambelt idler, Ensure the the crank is still TDC using either the TDC guage or a long thin screwdriver/paintbrush/or just anything that pokes out the cylinder whilst resting on the #1 piston, rock the crank till the implement is at its highest point, that is TDC. 7. Slip the belt over the crank pulley ensuring the arrows are at the top and pointing to the front of the car (clockwise), up the back of the idler, keeping the belt tensioned slip it onto the exhaust cam pulley so that minimal play along that length is evident, ensure belt goes around the back of the tensioner and front of the water pump, now slide in the inlet pulley so that the 4 threaded holes in the variator are central to the groves in the pulley then loosely fit the plate and 4x bolts to the inlet pulley. 8. Insert Cambelt tensioning tool, rotate tool until pointer arm on the tensioner points to the 4mm hole in the tensioner body, tighten 13mm nut, tighten 18mm Exhaust cam pulley bolt whilst holding the pulley still, tighten the cam pulley bolts, fit balance belt tensioner lleaving 10mmnut 1 turn loose, fit balance belt crank pulley, slide on balance belt ensuring the arrows point clockwise again and balance shaft marks are vertical or just forward of vertical (there are white marks on the covers to aid in this but are hard to see), fit balance belt tensioning tool and rotate it till the tensioner sits halfway between the stops and tighten the 10mm nut. 9. Remove the 2 camlocks, rotate the crank 2 full turns clockwise until TDC is reached and slide the camlocks back on to ensure timing is correct, if you miss TDC go round twice more till it is reached, if there is any resistance to turning the engine then don't force it as valve damage may occur. Remove the camlocks and refit the cam support blocks. 10. replace seal in cam cover, place a dab of silicone sealant and the front and rear end of the seal plate and refit the cam cover, refit or replace the spark plugs, refit the coil packs ensuring the earth wire is attached to the r/h ff 6mm ribe, reconnect the brathers and plug in the coil packs, A/C pump and Lambda, refit cambelt covers. 11. refit or replace aux belt tensioner, Idler, crank pulley, belt, cover, arch cover, engine cover, wheel and lower car to floor and torque wheel bolts, reconnect battery +ve FIRST. 12 top up coolant til the tank is brimming, fit the cap, undo the bleed screw at the top of the L/H ff side of the radiator and allow it to flow till a steady steam is flowing, refit bleed screw and ensure level is correct in header tank. Ensure oil level is correct. Start engine and allow to idle for 5 minutes, checking the coolant level and temperature also ensuring there are no oil leaks from the disturbed seals and gaskets. After 5 minutes, take the revs upto 3500 and hold for 30 seconds then release the pedal slowly over 10 seconds, this will fill the variator and any empty tappets with oil and quieten down the engine. Job done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted September 4, 2011 Thanks a lot smaky I really appreciate it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 I'd havetaken pics while I did mine on thursday but I needed the car to be back on the road within the hour so didn't stop to smile for the camera, but I have another one to do this week so I'll get some then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 Ok cool, I will be looking forward to it, my camblocks were supposed to arrive already, I don't know why its taking so long, will find out tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 Ok cool, I will be looking forward to it, my camblocks were supposed to arrive already, I don't know why its taking so long, will find out tomorrow Service from TotallyAlfa can be slow, but maybe it's customs holding them back??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 No my girlfriend had it delivered to her aunt over there and here aunt is sending it via a courier service. The courier service is supposed to take 7 - 15 working days for it to be delivered. Today was the 12th day Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 6, 2011 certain fastners may vary due to others replacing them in the past but I tried to make it as accurate as possible to a factory supplied car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyblo5 17 Report post Posted September 9, 2011 remove the aux belt by tieing the rope to the spanner, fitting it to the aux tensioner at about the 4 o'clock position, pull up on the rope and slide the belt off the idler, this will mean you are not lying on the floor strugling Why didn't i think of that. Done this job a fair few times now but always from underneath. Nice tip Smaky, Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfaholic 001 0 Report post Posted September 15, 2011 And I'm still waiting for the damn camblocks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mitchman 0 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 This write up has been around along time and is really useful http://home.hccnet.nl/jaap.bouma/PhaseVariator.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 Except that ancient guide shows the teflon tensioner which has been out of use since 2003 because they wore away or shattered. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mitchman 0 Report post Posted September 30, 2011 You can't get them now though anymore can you? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
